The UralTone 8-8 is a very accurate copy of the original TS-808 Tube Screamer pedal. This sounds as good as the original since the circuit is 100% the same and we use only high quality parts. The kit is supplied with a 4558 dual operational amplifier and Japanese transistors. The IC is socketed, so it's easy to replace with the pin-compatible favorite of your taste of any 8 pin dual opamp.
[product ids=“29515”]
Features
Knobs: Distortion, tone, volume Switches: by-pass Power supply: 9V battery or 7-15VDC power supply Size: 80x55x21mm (box measures)
Follow the assembly order in the images below. We strive to keep the component models the same, but the component market changes rapidly, so sometimes we need to switch manufacturers or series due to availability issues. If a part looks slightly different, don't worry—each component has its required values marked on it.
Start the assembly with the footswitch. First, solder the LED resistor. This resistor is packed separately in the hardware set.Insert the footswitch into the board and ensure that the board and switch are at a right angle to each other. Note the switch installation direction: the anti-rotation tab should be facing up, matching the notch in the enclosure hole.Cut 5 cm pieces from the wire provided in the kit. Strip about 3 mm of insulation, twist the strands together, and pre-tin the stripped wire ends.
NOTE: The LED is not installed at this stage!Tighten one of the mounting nuts onto the footswitch.Set aside the footswitch board and move on to the effect circuit board. Start by soldering the resistors and diodes onto the board. Diodes have a specified installation direction. The diode housing has a printed stripe, which should match the corresponding markings on the board silkscreen. It is best to start with the lowest-profile components. This way, they stay flush against the PCB when flipped over for soldering. Note the jumper wire (Ra) on the board. Use leftover component leads from resistors for this.Solder the IC socket onto the board. The IC socket has a notch indicating the direction of pin 1.Solder the ceramic and film capacitors in place. The ceramic capacitor has been bent in the image so that its markings are visible. Install it standing upright (see later images).
The capacitance value of ceramic and film capacitors may be labeled in different ways. In ceramics, the value is often indicated using the first two digits, with the third digit representing the number of zeros: for example, 221 is 220pF, while 104 is 100,000, meaning 100nF or 0.1uF. In film capacitors, the marking may be in nF or uF, and the leading zero before a decimal point may be omitted. For example, .22 means 0.22uF or 220nF. In film capacitors, capacitance and voltage ratings are sometimes separated by a tolerance letter. For instance, .1K63 means a 100nF capacitor with a 63V voltage rating and ±10% tolerance.
Install the transistors onto the board. Their orientation is printed on the PCB to match the shape of the component.Solder the electrolytic capacitors in place. Bipolar capacitors have no polarity, but others have their negative terminal marked with a white stripe.
NOTE: In some kits, the 0.22uF electrolytic capacitor and the 1uF bipolar capacitor may be replaced with a 220nF and 1uF polyester capacitor. This part has no specified polarity and can be installed either way. These parts look similar to the film capacitors from the previous step but are slightly larger in size.Electrolytic capacitors viewed from the side.Insert the IC chip into the socket. The IC has a marking on the end where pin 1 is located. This is either indicated by a notch in the housing or a dot next to pin 1.The alignment tab of the middle potentiometer must be removed. This can be done by bending it off or cutting it with side cutters.Cast aluminum breaks off quite easily.Solder the potentiometers in place. You can use the enclosure lid as a jig to ensure all three potentiometers are positioned correctly.Solder the previously assembled footswitch board and battery clip in place. The battery clip wires can be shortened by about 5 cm.Install the jacks into the enclosure.Insert the DC jack into the mounting hole.Insert the LED into its mounting position. Observe the LED polarity. The shorter leg / beveled side is marked on the board. When viewed vertically (wires facing up), the beveled side / shorter lead should be on the left.This assembly is inserted into the enclosure.Install the circuit boards into the enclosure. First, thread the battery clip wires under the output jack. Be careful when installing the effect board to ensure that the DC jack does not fall out of place. (You can keep it in place using an unpowered DC plug). If desired, attach the front panel. Tighten the nuts by hand and position the boards neatly. Once everything is in place, solder the DC jack. The LED should be inserted through the front panel and soldered in place. (Note: The effect in the image may be different)
NOTE: UralTone kits use two different types of input jacks. Before soldering, check which version of the jack is included in your kit: https://en.uraltone.com/blog/input-jack//
Solder the jack wires. It is best to start with the bottom row of wires and allow each connection to cool before proceeding. When routing the next wires over the previous ones, ensure that the insulation does not touch the soldered joints. The outer soldering tabs on the jacks can be bent slightly inward to provide more space for soldering. You can also leave the jacks slightly loose and rotate them into a more convenient position before final tightening. (Note: The effect in the image may be different)Tighten the front panel nuts and attach the potentiometer knobs. The effect is now ready for testing!
Enjoy your playing!
If you have any questions or would like to provide feedback, please don’t hesitate to contact us!
Wellcome to our new blog site. We have tons of building instructions and other material in Finnish that we are currently translating to english. So lost of new material is coming soon!
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