With the UralTone Experimental F-FACE circuit board, you can easily build any FF-type pedal. The trimmers allow for easy biasing of different transistor types, making this a truly experimental Fuzz Face.
Many manufacturers created their own versions of this simple circuit in the 1960s, and later almost all boutique pedal builders followed suit. However, simplicity can be deceptive—this is not the easiest pedal to get sounding great. This kit includes adjustment instructions for the three trimmers, so with a multimeter and your ears, you can fine-tune the pedal to achieve an excellent fuzz face sound.
Experimenters can try different types of transistors in the pedal to further refine it to their sonic preferences.
This version includes an additional "pre-gain" control, which simulates the guitar's volume control. This adjustment makes the pedal much more versatile and allows it to work better with other pedals placed before it (e.g., WAH).
Specifications:
Controls: Fuzz, Volume, and Input Level (=Pre-Gain) Switches: Bypass
Follow the step-by-step assembly guide below. We strive to keep the component models consistent, but due to rapid changes in component availability, we sometimes have to switch manufacturers or series. If any part looks slightly different, don't worry—each component has its values marked on its surface.
Start the assembly with the footswitch. First, solder the LED resistor in place. This resistor is packed separately in the hardware set pouch.Press the footswitch firmly into the board. Note the installation direction—the notch in the threaded section should be facing upwards. The solder pads on the board are tight, so the switch requires some force and persuasion. Be determined—the PCB and switch are sturdy enough.Cut 5 cm pieces from the included wire. Strip about 3mm of insulation, twist the strands together, and pre-tin the stripped wire ends.
NOTE: The LED is not installed at this stage!Set the footswitch board aside and move on to the main circuit board. Start by soldering the resistors and diodes onto the board. Diodes have a marked polarity. A stripe is printed on the diode body, which matches the corresponding marking on the PCB. Assembly should always begin with the lowest components, ensuring they stay flush with the board when flipped for soldering.Solder the transistor sockets in place.Solder the ceramic and film capacitors onto the board. The ceramic capacitors have been tilted in the image for readability, but they should be installed upright (see the next step).Solder the trimmers in place and insert the transistors into their sockets. Trim the transistor leads to about 5mm so they fit properly under the potentiometers. Note: The image shows the BC337 transistors included in the kit.Side view of the transistors.Install the electrolytic capacitors. Pay attention to their polarity (white stripe = negative).Side view of the electrolytic capacitors.The center potentiometer’s guide pin must be removed. This can be done by twisting or cutting it off with side cutters.Cast aluminum breaks off quite easily.Solder the potentiometers in place. You can use the device's enclosure lid as a stand to ensure all three potentiometers are correctly aligned.Solder the previously assembled footswitch board and the battery clip in place. The battery clip wires can be shortened by approximately 5 cm.Install the jacks into the enclosure. A star washer is placed between the enclosure and the jack.Insert the DC jack into the mounting hole.Insert the LED into its designated position. Pay attention to its polarity. The shorter leg of the LED / beveled side is marked on the board. When viewed vertically (wires facing up), the beveled side / shorter leg should be on the left.This assembly is inserted into the enclosure.Install the boards into the enclosure. First, route the battery clip wires underneath the output jack. Be careful when installing the effect board to ensure the DC jack does not fall out of place. (You can use an unpowered DC plug to hold it in place.) If desired, install the front panel. Tighten the nuts by hand and carefully position the board. Once everything is properly aligned, solder the DC jack in place. The LED is inserted through the front panel and soldered into place.
NOTE: UralTone kits use two different types of input jacks. Before soldering, check which version is included in your kit: https://en.uraltone.com/blog/input-jack/ The link also contains instructions for soldering the jacks.
Tighten the front panel nuts and attach the potentiometer knobs. The effect is now ready for final adjustments and testing!
Enjoy playing!
If you have any questions or would like to provide feedback, feel free to contact us!
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