UralTone Ken is an overdrive DIY kit inspired by the legendary Klon Centaur. Like its predecessor, the circuit uses an internal voltage boost, increasing the circuit’s voltage by approximately three times. This allows for greater headroom for both the internal and output signal.
The pedal is designed for use with a guitar, but experimentation with other instruments is possible.
The circuit is assembled into a pre-drilled UT-1590B enclosure, like most of our effect kits. Since the circuit is slightly more complex than others, the space reserved for a battery in the enclosure has been used for the circuit instead. For this reason, the effect cannot be powered by a 9V battery.
High-quality components and a carefully analyzed circuit make the UralTone DIY kit comparable to the best boutique clones. The effect is built into the familiar UralTone 1590B enclosure, like other UralTone effects.
Controls: Gain, Treble, Output Switches: Bypass Operating voltage: 9VDC power supply Size: 111x60x27mm (excluding protrusions)
Follow the assembly sequence shown in the images below. We strive to keep the component models consistent, but the component market changes rapidly. Sometimes, due to poor availability, we may need to switch manufacturers or series. If a component looks slightly different in color, don’t worry—each component has its values marked on the part itself.
Ken PCB: The board is printed with the positions and identifiers of all components. The corresponding component values or types can be found in the parts list included with the kit. The assembly guide follows the principle of soldering the lowest components first, ensuring that the components stay flush with the PCB when flipped for soldering. We recommend following this order.Place and solder all resistors onto the PCB. Resistors are marked with the identifier "R" (R1, R2, etc.).Next, solder the diodes onto the PCB. These are marked with the "D" identifier. Diodes have a specific orientation—align the stripe on the PCB with the stripe on the component. Note: Diodes D4 and D5 are germanium diodes. The space on the PCB for these is tight, so carefully bend the legs at a sharp angle right at the base of the glass body. Do not force them into place by pulling on the legs with pliers. These diodes are also sensitive to heat, so solder them quickly.Solder the IC sockets (U1-U3) into place. Pay attention to orientation—align the notch on the socket with the corresponding marking on the PCB.Install the ceramic and polyester capacitors. Capacitors are marked with the identifier "C." These components do not have a specific orientation. Start with the smallest values and proceed to the larger ones—this way, the installation follows a low-to-high height order.Next, place and solder the electrolytic capacitors. These have a specific polarity. The capacitor’s negative terminal is marked with a stripe and a minus/zero marking on its body. Align this marking with the colored end of the PCB printing. The positive terminal is also indicated on the PCB.Install the DC jack onto the board. It is recommended to solder only one pin first— in the picture, the bottom (negative) pin is soldered. This allows some flexibility when installing the PCB into the enclosure.Press the IC chips U1-U3 into their sockets. The IC package has corresponding notches on the sides that match the sockets. In some cases, the marking is printed or has an indented dot at pin 1. Align this marking with the notch direction on the socket.Install the B10K potentiometers RV2 and RV3. The guide pin on RV3 must be removed by bending and snapping it off with side cutters or needle-nose pliers. Solder the potentiometers only from the center pin first. Ensure that the component is flush with the PCB and aligned properly. If needed, reheat the solder and press the part against the board. Solder the jack wires onto the board. Twist and tin the wire ends before installation.Solder the jacks as shown in the image. Insert the stereo potentiometer into the board, but do not solder it yet. Insert the footswitch with its nut screwed all the way down to the base of the board. Make sure the guide notch faces upward. Do not solder yet. Place LED D6 in its mounting hole. The shorter leg (negative terminal) should be on the left. Slightly bend the LED legs outward to prevent it from falling out. Note: At this stage, only the jacks should be soldered.Install the jacks into the enclosure. The ground lugs should face upwards, as shown. Tighten the jack nuts only finger-tight so you can adjust their position if needed. Next, slide the circuit board into the enclosure, starting from the footswitch side. Use a screwdriver or similar tool to help guide the components into place. Secure the footswitch and potentiometers. If you are using a front panel, install it at this stage.Once all front panel components are secured, ensure the PCB is positioned as deep as possible. Solder the footswitch, potentiometers, and DC jack. Insert the LED through the front panel hole and solder it in place.Attach the chosen knobs to the potentiometers. Secure the back cover and attach the rubber feet. The unit is now ready! Enjoy your playing sessions.
Wellcome to our new blog site. We have tons of building instructions and other material in Finnish that we are currently translating to english. So lost of new material is coming soon!
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UralTone Ken Overdrive -pedal kit (Klon Centaur)
