ROTTA means RAT in Finnish and this is very accurate copy of original RAT distortion pedal. Unlike re-issues this uses NOS metal can IC to produce original vintage RAT sound.
ROTTA means RAT in Finnish and this is very accurate copy of original metal can IC RAT. Unlike re-issues this uses NOS metal can IC to produce original vintage RAT sound.
Follow the assembly order in the images below. We strive to keep component models the same, but the component market changes rapidly. Occasionally, we may need to switch manufacturers or component series due to availability issues. If a part looks slightly different, don’t worry—each component has the necessary values marked on it.
Solder the LED current-limiting resistor (Rled) onto the board.Insert the footswitch into the board and ensure that it is perpendicular. Pay attention to the switch orientation: the anti-rotation tab should be facing upward to match the notch in the enclosure hole. (If the switch is rotated 180 degrees, you can file off the tab from the enclosure.) Solder the included wiring pieces to the board. Twist and pre-tin the wire ends before soldering to make installation easier and prevent wire fraying.Screw one of the footswitch mounting nuts into place.Set the footswitch board aside and move on to the main effect PCB. Begin by soldering the resistors onto the board. It’s best to start with the smallest components first so they stay flush when you flip the board over for soldering.Solder the diodes and IC socket to the board. Pay attention to orientation. The diode’s stripe should match the silkscreen marking on the PCB. The IC socket has a notch indicating pin 1.Solder ceramic and film capacitors onto the board. In the image, the ceramic capacitors are tilted for visibility.
Film type capacitors may look different and the markings may vary. Usually 100nF is marked as 100n, 104 or 0.1u markings. 22nF may be marked as 223. 1nF may be 1000 and 3.3nF 3300.
Install them upright (see later images for reference).Solder the electrolytic capacitors onto the board. Ensure correct polarity (white stripe indicates the negative side).Side view of the electrolytic capacitors.Solder the FET onto the board. The PCB allows fitting for different FET types with its four pad with DGSD markings. Depending the JFET type supplied with the kit align it by using the instructions supplied with the kit. Alternatively use search engines with keywords pinout and the set type in question.
On picture above is taken board fitted BF256 type fet. Do not solder the JFET you have without of making sure the pinout first!
The kit includes a BF256, which should be installed as shown. Insert the metal-can IC into its socket. Trim the IC legs to about 5 mm so the component does not sit too high. Observe the orientation of the metal tab, which indicates the location of pin 8. On the PCB, this is at the lower left side of the image.PCB is nearly complete, only missing the potentiometers. The metal-can IC is approximately the same height as the electrolytic capacitors.The guide pin of the middle potentiometer must be removed. This can be done by twisting or cutting it with side cutters.Die-cast aluminum breaks quite easily.Solder the potentiometers in place. You can use the enclosure lid as a stand to ensure all three potentiometers are aligned correctly.Solder the previously assembled footswitch board and battery clip. The battery clip wires can be shortened by approximately 5 cm.Install the jacks into the enclosure.Insert the DC jack into its mounting hole.Insert the LED into its mounting position. Pay attention to the LED polarity. The shorter leg / beveled side is marked on the board. When viewed vertically (wires facing up), the beveled side / shorter lead should be on the left. Place the washers on the footswitch thread in preparation for installation.This assembly is inserted into the enclosure. Install the circuit boards into the enclosure. First, route the battery clip wires under the output jack. Be careful when installing the effect board to prevent the DC jack from falling out (you can keep it in place with an unpowered DC plug). If desired, install the front panel. Tighten the nuts by hand and adjust the board into position. Once everything fits correctly, solder the DC jack in place. The LED is inserted through the front panel and then soldered. (Note: The effect shown in the image is different.)Solder the jack wires. It is best to start with the lower row of wires and allow the connection to cool before proceeding. This prevents the insulation of previously soldered wires from touching solder lugs. The outer solder lugs of the jacks should be slightly bent inward to provide enough space for soldering. The jacks can also be left slightly loose and rotated into position before final tightening. (Note: The effect in the image is different, but the soldering method is the same for all two-board effects.)
NOTE: UralTone kits use two different types of input jacks. Check which version is included in your kit before soldering: https://en.uraltone.com/blog/input-jack/ Same as above, but on the correct circuit board.Tighten the front panel nuts and attach the potentiometer knobs. The effect is ready for testing!
Enjoy your playing sessions!
If you have any questions or would like to provide feedback, please do not hesitate to contact us!
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UralTone ROTTA (RAT) distortion pedal - KIT€59.00
