UralTone Cabamp switcher - pictorial assembly guide

UralTone Cabamp 6x6 Switcher enables quick selecting and patching of six amplifiers and speakers. Usage is easy: connect a speakers to outputs 1-6 and amplifiers to amp input and outputs 1-6 and quitar to input and select any speaker and amplifier out of six with rotary switches independendly.

UralTone Cabamp Swicher - BOM

Check all the parts

Always check first that all parts are included in the delivery. If you find any problems please contact us by email or through the "contact us" form on the pages. Note that the components may look slightly different than in the photos. Also, note that the voltage specs of the parts may be higher than what is listed. Read all the notes at BOM (bill of material) carefully.

Building the Switcher

Follow the order in which the images below are assembled. We try to keep component manufacturers and types the same, but sometimes we have to change the manufacturer or model of a part due to poor availability. So if a part is a slightly different color or higher voltage rating, all is good, each component has the required values marked on the side of the part.

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Solder power supply parts, diode and two capacitors. Electrolyte capacitor C1 and diode D7 has specified mounting direction. Align parts according the case and silk screen markings as in the picture.

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Solder diodes D1-6 and D8-13 on PCB. These diodes have polarity as well. The ring on package is aligned with silk screen on board as in the pictures.

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Solder relays K7-K12 on PCB

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Solder relays K1-K6 and K13-K18 on PCB.

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Bend the wires of the 5W resistor and pre cut at least another wire short as pictured. Resistors are soldered on reverse side compared to previous components and relays and resistor overlaps. Wires have no space to go through the PCB.

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Solder resistors R1-R6 on PCB.

Note: The resistance of these resistors may vary. The precise sizing is not essential, the resistor is just dummy load for amplifier with no output signal. These resistors are for protection for tube amplifiers requiring load on their outputs.

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Solder R7 on PCB.

Note: This dummy resistor is shared between unconnected speaker output jacks. Its possible to select the output without speaker connected and this resistor is the protection for tube amps. It has 5W of power handling so it can't handle big signals for long time.

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Assembly of the resistor from side view. The resistor sits on the pins of the relay so the resistor and PCB has some space between.

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Fasten the spacers. There's total of 11 spacer pairs mounted on the PCB.

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Same as before, spacers installed.

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Lay the rear panel jack on their pads. Do not solder these yet.

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Press the back panel on it's place.

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Fasten the nuts and washers. This sets the jacks on their right positions.

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Lift up the rear panel with the jacks and confirm the jacks are fastened properly. Its possible to adjust the angle of the jack to right angle. If the jack is bit sideways, the panel is difficult to fit back on main PCB.

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Insert the rotary switches on their pads. Do not solder these yet.

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Proper depth of the switch is there where the pins are approx 1mm through the pads / PCB.

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Aligning the switch may be more easy when the front panel is installed temporally with two closest screws on rotary switch.

Note: The rotary switch is not fastened on front panel by any means.

When the rotary switches are soldered, remove the front panel if it was fitted.

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Fit the rear panel with jacks on main PCB and secure it by M3 screws.

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Solder all jack excluding the shared pad of J14 and J17 (pictured in the middle).

The space between relays is narrow. The soldering gets bit easier when jacks are soldered on middle pins first, then on left side, if you hold the soldering iron with right hand. Then turn the switcher around and solder the previously right hand pins now on left. This way you won't need to solder behind the corner and keep the soldering iron on more natural position.

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Fasten the front panel jack using same technique as with the rear panel jacks. This way the alignment of the jack is right. Fasten the nut properly and screw the front panel screws. Solder the jack contacts. The space is bit thight. Note the shared pad of J14 and J17.

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Solder the DC jack. Using non powered DC jack helps to align the jack straight and hold it when soldering.

Note: the picture is taken before fitting the front panel jack. It's probably easier to solder the DC jack after the front panel jack J17.

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Fasten the rotary switch knobs. Cabamp is now ready.

Note: The switcher built on these pictures is rack ear version of the kit. Front panel is 1.6mm fibre glass laminate and tolerates limited amount of bending force towards panel ears of wires attached on the rear panel. For usage for touring and gigs, it's recommended to install the switcher on bottom row of rack where the cables are supported by bottom of rack or above deep rack device. Alternatively it's possible to fit blank 1U aluminium panel and drill the holes on it by using the panel supplied with the kit.