UralTone Studio Fuzz building instructions
UralTone Studio Fuzz building instructions
Studio Fuzz is loosely based on the Tone Bender MK III Treble’n’Bass concept, which was prototype-implemented with silicon transistors in the late ’60s.
Sonically, the Studio Fuzz is an impressive and especially strongly articulating, raspy Fuzz pedal. Like the most distinctive Fuzz guitar solo recorded in the late 60s. There is no FUZZ FACE roundness or BIG MUFF singing in the sound. My direction has been towards the louder sounding landscapes of the Tone Bender MK1 and Mosrite Fuzz-Rite. At the same time towards something new.
Check all the parts
Always check first that all parts are included in the delivery. If you find any problems please contact us by email or through the "contact us" form on the pages. Note that the components may look slightly different than in the photos. Also, note that the voltage specs of the parts may be higher than what is listed. Read all the notes at BOM (bill of material) carefully.
Building the pedal
Follow the order in which the images below are assembled. We try to keep component manufacturers and types the same, but sometimes we have to change the manufacturer or model of a part due to poor availability. So if a part is a slightly different color or higher voltage rating, all is good, each component has the required values marked on the side of the part.
UralTone Studio Fuzz effect circuit board: The locations of all parts with their part numbers (designator) are printed on the board. C=capacitor, R=resistor, Q= transistor, D=diode etc. The values or types of parts corresponding to the designator can be found in the parts list provided with the kit.
It is a good idea to start with low / smaller parts, so that the parts are pressed against the surface of the pcb when they are soldered to the board and the board is turned over on a table or similar surface. Start by populating the resistors on a pcb. Resistors are marked R1, R2, etc. Resistor values are marked with colored rings. To interpret these, see the table provided with the kit. The correct values can also be measured or compared to the color rings in the image above. It doesn't matter the direction in which the resistors are installed, but for readability, it's a good idea to install them in the same direction, depending on the printing on the disc.
Solder diode D1 to pcb. Note the mounting postition. Diode has tripe printed on the end of the package. The pcb has same figure silk screened.
Solder the trimmer RV2.
Solder the Ceramic and Plastic Film Capacitors (C1, C2…) in place. The values of the ceramic capacitors are denoted so that the first two digits indicate the value of the first two digits. The third indicates the number of zeros. For example, 471 is 470pF, 472 is 4700pF, or 4.7nF. The installation direction of these parts does not matter.
Install the electrolytic capacitors on the plate. Note the mounting direction of the part, the printed stripe on the side of the part marking the negative terminal of the capacitor corresponds to the white semicircular pattern printed on the circuit board.
Solder the transistors (Q1, Q2 ...) to the board. Leave about a few millimeters of connecting wire between the housing and the board on the transistor legs. These parts do not withstand hot conditions so work quickly.
The transistors in the KIT have been selected according the gain and, so install correct part to correct place - Q1 selected to Q1 place etc.
Same step from another angle
Next solder the potentiometers to board. The middle one A100k on below needs the guide pin to be removed. This breaks off with pliers.
Cast aluminum breaks off easily.
Solder the potentiometers to the pcb. It is advisable to solder the potentiometer middle foot first and then check that it is on the surface of the plate and straight. When the position is correct, solder the outermost pins.
Solder the DC jack.
Solder the battery clip and jacks with short wires.
Note the green and white wires are soldered to wrong lugs on picure.
Push the footswitch into it's pads. Screw in one nut all the way bottom. Do not solder the part yet. (The footswich is bit tight, but don't worry, the board will hold.)
The UralTone effect kits are delivered with two different types of input jacks. Please refer how to solder instructions found here: https://en.uraltone.com/blog/input-jack/
Fit the led in its place. Do not solder the led yet
Install the circuit in the housing. If necessary, guide the cables, etc. so that the pcb goes all the way to the bottom of the housing and is at the same level all the way.
Fasten the potentiometers and footswitch on the front. Fit the panel if its bought as option with the kit.
When pcb is it's final position, solder the footswich, led, etc.
Fit the battery. The Studio Fuzz is ready for to be tested.
Attach the desired style knobs to the front panel. If the effect works as supposed, it must still be adjusted.
Plug the input jack to power the effect. Measure the voltage between TP2 and the aluminum enclosure. Turn the trimmer for 3.7Vdc.
Enjoy your new effect!