UralTone The Point 6,5" speaker kit - instructions
UralTone The Point 6,5" speaker kit - instructions
UralTone The Point 6.5" is the smallest speaker in our coaxial kit series, but represents the same quality as previous bigger models. Due to its small size and relatively simple structure, the speaker is easy to build. The design goal was to create a speaker that is much smaller than 12/15" co-axials but with a same stunning sound image made possible by the coaxial element. We are very pleased with the result: the overall sound quality is excellent and the bass reproduction is much better than you might think from such a small box without electrical correction.
In this article, we’ll go through the construction of the kit except cabinet making.
URALKIT panel texts are made in real gold! The devil is in the details.
UralTone The point 6,5" speaker cabinet CAD picture:
The dimensions of the cabinet can be changed as desired as long as the internal volume remains the same.
We recommend at least 15mm plywood or MDF as the material. The most important thing is that the housing is as acoustically rigid as possible.
The enclosure must be damped with a suitable damping material. The kit comes with a cotton damping cloth that is 25mm thick. The recommended damping amounths are:
- Backplate 100mm
- Sides 25mm
- Roof 50mm
- Floor, above bass-reflex tubes 50mm
- NOTE: do not block the openings of the reflex tubes with a damping material - air must be allowed to flow freely from the tube into the housing and out
Construction of a crossover
The Crossover is delivered in parts, so it has to be built by yourself. The structure is simple and the parts are big, so the work is not difficult at all.
In brief: Solder the components according to the BOM and the circuit board image into correct places.
- Lead-free solder should be used and solder with 3-4% silver should be chosen. Other solders are difficult to work with. That is, the mixture should be e.g. Sn96,5Ag3Cu0.5. Ag3 means 3% silver.
- The soldering iron must be adjustable to get the temperature high enough. 370C is suitable. A soldering station is recommended. For less than € 100, you can already get an excellent soldering station (hobby range).
- Provide adequate ventilation - solder fumes are not good for your health
- The crossover components do not have an installation direction, ie all parts in this kit are bipolar. So you can install resistors and capacitors in either direction.
- Start with the lowest component. Install the part on the board, turn the plate upside down against the table, and solder the component legs to the solder pads.
- Work calmly and heat the solder sufficiently: the solder should be completely melted when the tip of the soldering iron is removed from the solder. Cold soldering often occurs as a result of rushing.
- Finally, cut the legs that are too long under the board.
Speaker terminals and panel
The speaker terminals are massive, so you need a decent soldering iron to solder them. If this is not available, you should use solder lugs: it is much easier to solder them. Alway pre-solder the terminal or socket, so it is easier to solder the actual cable.
Note the installation of the plastic washers. If you use solder lugs, the plastic washers shown in the illustration below should be omitted. If you do not use lugs, install all washers.
The bass reflex tubes we use are adjustable. The recommended size is 25cm. Install the extension tube so that the part with the screw holes is on the inside. Secure the pipe with hot glue or solid tape, for example.
Attaching the parts to the enclosure
First fasten the bass reflex tubes with screws. The joint must be tight.
The wires for the connectors and speakers are then soldered to the crossover board.
- LF or WF stands for bass element. The + terminal is connected to the lug marked in red on the speaker (on the side of the speaker) and the - terminal again to the other corresponding terminal.
- HF or TW means a tweeter element, which in this case is integrated into the subwoofer, is connected to the terminals in the middle of the speaker magnet. Again, from the + point on the circuit board to the lug marked in red on the speaker.
- Solder the wires to the board input pads.
- The red wire is always used when wiring + wires and the black wire when using wires to the - terminals.
- Leave the wires long enough to allow the speaker and connector panel to be installed even after the crossover is attached inside the box.
Plastic pads come under the circuit board to prevent the solder joints from hitting the housing surface. If the installation is difficult, you can also use cotton or other non-conductive material that lifts the solders off the surface of the housing.
Attach the crossover filter to the back wall of the housing with screws.
The cables are then wired to the speaker panel and soldered to the connectors. Then attach the speaker panel to the housing. The joint must be tight. If you want to be super safe, you can cover the connector from inside the housing with hot glue to ensure the tightness of the joint. After this, however, the connectors can no longer be re-soldered.
Finally, pull the cables coming to the speaker outside the housing and solder them to the correct solder lugs. Be careful that the plus wires go to the right places, as well as the minus wires.
Insert the pading inside the case and screw the elements onto the case. The connection must be tight, but be careful not to damage the speaker or screws.
Lets try it
Once both speakers have been assembled according to the instructions, you can move on to the best part: enjoying the music. Connect the speakers to the amplifier, turn down the volume, put your favorite album to the player, and turn up the volume gently. The room is filled with the high-quality sound produced by the speakers you have just made!
Congratulations - we wish you and the speakers a long life and numerous enjoyable listening moments.